Global Taste in Shanghai | Eight-treasure duck

Eight-treasure duck (八宝鸭, bā bǎo yā) is a quintessential banquet dish in Shanghai, celebrated for its glossy whole-duck presentation and rich sticky rice filling. Its origins trace back to Jiangnan, the region along the southern part of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River.

Historical records from the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) reference an earlier dish known as "sticky rice duck" (糯米鸭子, nuò mǐ yā zi), widely regarded as a precursor to the modern dish. Over time, it evolved in Suzhou, Jiangsu province, and surrounding areas before becoming an integral part of Shanghai cuisine.

What makes it an "eight-treasure" dish?

Contrary to the literal implication, the name does not strictly require eight ingredients. Recipes vary across regions, periods, and chefs.

Typical fillings include chestnuts, ginkgo nuts (白果, bái guǒ),  diced pork, diced chicken, mushrooms, ham, and bamboo shoots. Some versions incorporate dried scallops (干贝, gān bèi), shrimp, lotus seeds, or coix seeds (薏仁, yì rén). The precise combination may differ, but the principle remains constant: the duck encases the flavorful filling, while the sticky rice absorbs the succulent juices released during cooking.

The skill behind the dish

The challenge of eight-treasure duck lies not in the ingredients themselves, but in the meticulous technique required.

Shanghai Classical Restaurant , established in 1875, is a designated guardian of the national intangible cultural heritage project "traditional cooking techniques of Shanghai local cuisine". At its Yuyuan Garden branch, the dish continues to be prepared using a traditional method passed down over generations.

The restaurant uses ducks sourced from Zhejiang province, selected for a balance of meat and fat that helps the final dish stay fragrant but not greasy. The duck is carefully prepared, filled with sticky riceand other ingredients, and then slow-steamed whole for eight hours.

During this prolonged steaming process, the rice gradually absorbs the duck's rich flavors, creating a dish that is tender, savory, and deeply aromatic. Luo Yulin, head chef at the restaurant's Yuyuan Garden branch and a fifth-generation inheritor of the technique, says this is the most traditional method, dating back to the 1930s.

A final, critical step involves cooling the duck overnight before serving. At Shanghai Classical Restaurant, steaming begins in the evening, and the dish is served the following day, allowing the flavors to fully meld.

How the filling has evolved

While the name has endured, the filling has become more elaborate over time.

Earlier versions were simpler, often comprising red dates, lotus seeds, and ginkgo nuts, along with duck or pork, seasoned modestly.

Today, Shanghai Classical Restaurant employs a standardized filling with four meats — chicken breast, pork, chicken gizzard, and ham — and four vegetarian ingredients — ginkgo nuts, mushrooms, chestnuts, and bamboo shoots. Dried scallops are added to enhance the dish with a natural umami depth.

Other historic Shanghai establishments have their own variations. Lu Bo Lang adds cured meat and mushrooms to the sticky rice filling, while its lotus-leaf-wrapped boneless eight-treasure duck brings a subtle lotus fragrance. Despite these differences, the dish retains its essence: layered, indulgent, and comforting.

A dish with a sense of occasion

Eight-treasure duck carries a ceremonial quality. Served whole, it gleams invitingly; when sliced, the rice and filling reveal a dense, aromatic interior.

It is traditionally associated with festivals, family gatherings, and celebratory meals, embodying auspicious meanings such as reunion and abundance. Some versions are shaped like a gourd (葫芦, hú lu), a symbol of good fortune and prosperity in Chinese culture.

Where to try it

Shanghai Classical Restaurant

• Address: No 242 Fuyou Road, Huangpu district
• Business hours: 11 am to 2 pm, 5 pm to 8:30 pm

Lu Bo Lang

• Address: No 115 Yuyuan Road, Huangpu district
• Business hours: 11 am to 2 pm, 5 pm to 8:30 pm

(Sources: xinmin.cn, chinanews.com.cn, WeChat account of Huangpu district government, the venues listed above, VCG)

Source: Intl Services Shanghai